Rolling to Rothenberg

Thursday, July 26, 2012 We boarded our buses to Wurzberg, a city that began with construction of a Celtic fortification on top of the Marienberg around 1000 BC. In the early 700's A.D. Germany's first church was built on that spot, which is also the site of the present Wurzburg Cathedral, constructed from 1040 to 1225. We visited this Cathedral. Wurzburg was a center of the Peasants' Revolt in the 16th century. The exploited underclass tried to besiege the prince-bishop's castle but their attempt failed. Theought the peasants' wars were ultimately lost, prince-bishop Julius Echter van Mespelbrunn introduced a number of reforms that benefited them. The next century saw more violence against another undervaued segment of the population..women. The Wurzburg witch trials lasted for four yers, from 1626 to 1631, but executions of women who had allegedly made a pact with the devil continued for 200 years throughout France and Germany. Perhaps the most remarkable thing about today's Wurzburg is its determination. In 1945, 90% of the city was destroyed by British bombers in 17 minutes. For the next 20 years, structures of historical significance were rebuilt in incredible detail, mostly by women (the Trummerfrauen or "rubble women") because their men had perished or gone missing in the war. Wurzberg is also the capital of the Germany's Franconia wine region, which is famous for its dry white wines especially from the Sylvaner grape. I had a chance to taste this wine and it is very good. I do not like sweet white wines and this one is not sweet. For some of our group they spent the rest of the day shopping in Wurzburg. Mark and I took an extra excursion to the city of Rothenburg. This is a university town and we had the chance to witness a demonstration on the town square. It seems that the town wants to build a horse stable and school on land that is currently being used for growing vegetables. The protestors came to town with a big cart full of fresh vegetables!! I spotted a Joseph Seibel shoe store and went in. The shoes were all half of what they cost in the US so of course I had to buy two pair!! There is a woman on our trip who has recently been diagnosed with ALS. She also has some difficulty in walking so the two of us have been hanging out together. I really hope they find a cure for this awful disease before it is too late for her.

Heidelberg

Wednesday, July 25, 2012 The ship has actually docked in Worth. We boarded buses for Heidelberg about 1.5 hours away. Poor Rick looks miserable and I know that it will be a tough day for him. It is very hot here (but not as hot as in St. Louis). Air conditioning is not as cool as it is at home so we are always slightly sweaty. Lying in the steep valley where the Odenwald mountains meet the Rhine and Neckar Rivers, heidelberg has long been considered the jewel of Germany. The city is often thought of as Germany's intellectual capital. It is home to the country's oldest university established in 1386.  It is home to the world's largest beer barrel.  Many of the older, well-preserved buildings that the five the old city center such charm are owned by the uniersity. The most notorious of these is the student jail. Students could end up here for all kinds of infractions, and many came to wear a sentence as a badge of honor; in fact, amny a student failed to get into the Big House felt that he had missed out on a crucial part of a Heidelberg education. Heidelberg was also the epicenter of the country's Romantic period, drawing artists, writers and scholars from all over the world--inspiring Goethe's poetry, Turner's landscapes and even Mark Twain's travel tales. In fact, Mark Twain wrote extensively about his travels in Germany, and no other city seemed to have attracted him more than Heidelberg. A book containing the best of his writings from this period, including a hilarious piece on his attempts to learn German, is still a popular best seller in Heidelberg. While other German cities were destroyed during the Allied bombings of World War II, Heidelberg was largely spared. As a result it has retained its baroque charm with narrow streets, helmut-shaped towers, stone bridges, historic churches and, of course, ivy-covered castle ruins. After the war, the US built a military base, which now houses 30,000 Americans made up of soldiers and their families. The most defining feature of Heidelberg is surely its castle, considered the most magnificent castle ruin in Germany. It took 400 years to build and exhibits a mix of Gothic, Renaissance and other styles. The building suffered severe damage several times during the 30 Year's War and the War of Succession. Rebuilding followed, but when lightening struck in 1764 and set the arsenal ablaze, attempts at restoration ended. Many houses in Heidelberg were built with stone taken from the ruins, until Count charles de Graimburg put a stop to the looting in 1800. So beautiful is the castle, even as much of it liesin ruins that many believe American raiders during WWII steered their bombs away from it. I began taking my Predisone and my knees have stopped hurting and the infection on my thigh has cleared up. I guess I should have taken the meds sooner so I wouldn't have had so much pain. The ship met us in Miltenberg with a brand new rudder. The First Officer Ferdinand gave us a slide program showing how the ship was repaired. I forgot to mention that during our free time in Rudesheim, I began searching for a new walking stick to replace the one I left on the mini bus. It was very hot and I walked for a long time. I finally decided that there wasn't one to be purchased in Rudeshiem and I started back to meet the bus. Then, all of sudden, I saw a shop with walkingsticks displayed out front. They were adjustable. I found one that had a headlight and a compass. I paid 13 Euros for it which is about $17. Sure beats the $85 I paid at REI for the one I lost.

The Rhine Valley

Tuesday July 24, 2012 Today we docked in Rudesheim. Rudesheim marks the southern entrance to the romantic Rhine Valley, a 40 mile gorge where the river is squeezed to its narrowest and deepest point making it more difficult to navigate. The Lorelei rock rises on the cliff above the river and comes with the legend of a woman whose singing bewitched the hearts of ancient sailors, causing them to crash. The entire town is a part of the Rhine Gorge, a UNESCO World Heritage Site recognized for its unigue combination of geology, history and culture, and one of the country's most important tourist destinations. We took a bus to the Marksburg Castle. This is a very primitive castle with uneven steps and lots of climbing. I was a little hesitant since my knees have been hurting so much. I went anyway and I am very happy I did. I made it up and down and was very happy I went. Rudesheim is a winemaking town known primarily for its Riesling grapes, the area produces mainly high-quality white wines like the Rudesheimer Reisling. Another local wine variety, the Ehrenfelser, was named for the Ehrenfels castle which is located amidst the vineyards on the steep eastern bank of the river. The castle was built in the early 13th century and, along with the Mouse Tower, it served both as a barrier and a toll station controlling travel along the Rhine. The bishop of Mainz became its proprietor in 1370 and in 1688 the fortress was nearly completely destroyed by the French during the Palatine War of Succession. Today it is considered one of the most beautiful and picturesque castle ruins on the river. Whentraveling along these rivers, the water levels change frequently so we go through some 50 locks before we reach our final destination. On the Moselle River we had to go through the locks to be lowered to accomodate the drops in the river. On the Rhine and the Main rivers we had to be lifted up to accomodate the higher water levels. It is really weird to look out your window and see the walls of the lock. My brother-in-law Rick has been stricten with a stomach bug. He really looks bad and has been staying in his cabin. We have learned that during our initial departure in cochem, the ship ran aground slightly and damaged a rudder. When we dock in Heidleberg everyone will need to get off the ship as it will be going to the dry dock for a repair of the rudder. This means that Rick will need to be well enough to leave the ship for a day. I am learning to enjoy white wine again. All along the river we see miles of grape vines just waiting to be crushed into wine. We also see many castles. I have lots of great photos but have not figured out how to transfer them into my blog. The pics may need to wait until I get home. I talked with the cruise director about having a Sabbath service on board on Friday evening. They have never done it but they were very anxious to try it. We agreed that we would hold a short service at 6:45 pm Friday before dinner and that the ship would provide a challah and wine. We can't have candles because of the fire hazard. We don't have any prayer books or a printed service but I think we can make it nice. My sister, Sandi, gave the head chef her challah recipe and he is very enthusiastic about trying this.

More Moselle

Day 6 Monday, July 23, 2012 We arrived in Cochem, considered to be the center of the Moselle wine trade. This town is surrounded by steep vineyards and quainte wine villages. They have many of the traditional half timbered houses and lazy winding streets. Cochem was settled by the Celts and later by the Romans. From the 13th to the 18th centuries it belonged to the bishopric of Trier. It suffered a plague and the plague was blamed on the Jews so most of them were forced to leave or were killed. We walked the streets of Cochem with a guide. Because my knees habe been bothering me I took the leisrely tour with a guide in his 80's. We did find the Jeudenstrasse or the street of the Jews but there is nothing there to indicate the the Jews were ever there. We also visted the Reichsbburg castle. Most of the castle was destroyed in the bombings of the second world war so this castle was rebuilt from drawings and remnants they found. We returned to the ship for lunch and sailed to Koblenz. We had a lovely dinner and then we walked around Koblenz. Unfortunately, it was late at night and nothing but restaurants and bars were open. The one unfortunate incident of the day was that I left my much needed walking stick on the mini bus that took us into Cochem. They did find it but were able to get it to me before our ship set sail for Koblenz. I had hoped to purchase another one in Koblenz but everything was closed. The infected bite on my thigh does not seem to be getting better but it is not getting worse. I continue to apply the dreams I received in Paris and hope it will disappear before the end of the trip.

On the Road Again

Day 5 July 21, 2012 We had our baggage outside our room at 6:30 am and we were on a bus at 7:30am. The bus ride to Luxembourg was three hours long. We made a stop at a roadside rest area that had food and drinks. Luxembourg is a lovely old European city/country. It lies strategically between France and Germany. It poured rain while we were there so we walked around and got drenched. Our tour guide, George, was very knowledgable and gave us a very good although wet tour. I did bring a rain poncho but it was in my suitcase under the bus. We drove from the center of Luxembourg to the American cemetery where George Patton is buried. Most of the people buried there fought and died in the Battle of the Bulge. There were thousands of crosses and mixed in were some stars of David. All but one person buried there are men. There is one woman who was a nurse who died in a car crash after the battle. From Luxembourg we took a short 30 minute drive to Trier, Germany where we boarded our boat, the Viking Sky. It is a long boat that is only three levels high. There are 144 people on board and they are all very friendly. Our cabin is on the lowest level and there are only stairs to get to it. My poor knees are really not happy. We do have a nice window. We had a lovely dinner complete with complimentary wine. At every meal we can have wine or beer. There was some entertainment after dinner that was so bad we chose to return to our cabin and turn in early.

On the Road Again

Day 5 July 21, 2012

Day 4 July 20, 2012

This was museum day. We had a nice breakfast at the hotel and then headed out with Rick and Sandi to see the Louvre. We took the Metro. The Louvre is an amazing place. It is huge. It would take at least 4 days to see everything. I was glad that I had downloded Rick Steve's audio guide of the Louvre. I saw the Venus DeMilo, the crown jewels, the Mona Lisa and much more. Unfotunately, I had to share all of these sites with at least 5,000 of my nearest and dearest friends. The place was packed. After over 2 and a half hours I had seen all I needed to for my first visit. On our way to the Orsay I young woman who was holding a child stopped me and handed me a man's gold wedding band that she said she just found. I told her it was not mine and she said that it was not hers and insisted that I take it. She then asked me for money to buy a Coke for her child. I gave her some change and she kept asking for more. I finally convinced her that I didn't have anymore. I am pretty sure this was some sort of scam but I am not sure what the point was. Where did she get the ring and what was in it for her to give it to me? I guess this will be one of the mysteries of the trip. We had a nice lunch at the Louvre in the Carousel food court. Rick and Sandi left to go to the Jewish Museum and Mark and I headed out to the Orsay. This is a museum devoted mainly to French Impressionist art. Since I love the Impressionists I was in heaven. I was only sad that Whister's Mother was not there. Mark and I took a bus back to the hotel. I got off at the hotel and Mark went on to explore modern Paris. He got some great photos. I had a bite of some sort on my thigh and it had become infected so I walked to the pharmacy to get some medicine. I spoke with a very nice young man pharmacist who gave me two creams to apply at 3 hour intervals. He told me that 12 people had been killed by a gunman in Denver. I am so sad about this. We went for dinner at a restaurant not far from the hotel that served crepes. Had more food than we could eat and it was delicious. We all fell in love with our charming waitress who is studying to be a lawyer. Early to bed as we have to have out luggage outside the room by 6:30 am and we will board our bus to go to Luxembourg and Trier tomorrow. We will board our ship late in the afternoon.

Day 3 July 18, 2012 We awoke early after a wonderful night's sleep. I forgot to mention that when we opened our baggage after arriving at the hotel we found that our clothes were all wet. The baggage must have sat out in the rain. We hung our clothes all over the room and this morning everything was dry. We met my sister and brother in law and walked over to the train station for our trip out to Versailles. We grabbed a pastry and coffee at a stand in the station and took the 50 minute trip Versaille. While we were waiting on the train we started a conversation with a young woman who worked in the library at Versaille. She gave us all the scoop about where to go and what to do. we reached the front of the palace just before 9am when it opened and the lines to get in were already very long. We had been told by Rick Steve's that if you had a museum pass you could go to the front of the line. I guess no one else talked to him so we waited in line. The line went pretty quickly. I had brought my walking stick with me in anticipation of my knees hurting and that made me a handicapped person here in Paris. Mark and I got to ride the elevator and pass up the crowd. We used Rick Steve's podcast to take us through the palace. It is more than exquisite. The opulence was mind boggling. They also have huge modern art object throughout the palace. Many were made with fabric. I have some great photos but haven't figured out how to get them onto my iPad yet. We strolled through the magnificant gardens for over an hour and did not see all of it. There are hundreds of fountains and many lakes on the grounds. These folks really knew how to live. Given that the rest of France was starving it is no wonder that Louis XV! and his wife Marie Antoinette were beheaded. We had a lovely lunch at a cafe in the gardens. Had great salads. We got back on the train and headed for the Marai district and the Jewish section of Paris. My sister had a map but unfortunately it was not easy to read. We walked for what seemed like miles before we finally found the area. It was well worth the blisters. Lots of Felafel shops and Kosher bakeries. Also several shops that sold very nice Judaica. We then headed over to the Holocaust Museum. It was very hard to get in as there was a guard at the door who questioned you and then you had to go through a meta detector. Once inside it was disappointing as everything was in French and none of us speak French. The guard was nice enough to call us a cab. We headed back to the hotel. Had a nice dinner at St. Ferdinand Cafe where we also got free internet. I have found that almost all restaurants here have wifi and will give you the password if you ask. After dinner we headed down to the river and took an hour long cruise on the Seine. We again were afforded early boarding since I had my cane with me. The Eiffel Tower is lit at night and it was an amazing site. Every hour they turn on flashing lights that twinkle all over the Tower. Sandi, Rick and I headed back to the hotel and Mark decided to go to the Eiffel Tower at night. Sandi, Rick and I stopped at a cafe for a glass of wine and Mark soon joined us as the lines were too long at the Tower. Finally got to bed at 3am and slept very soundly until 8:30. Day 4 July 19, 2012 Morning came much too soon for me. Mark and I had a roll and coffee at a local cafe and Sandi and Rick went on their own to do what we had done the first day we were here. Our first stop was at the Harley Davidson store so I could buy a Harley T Shirt that said Paris on it. Motorcylces and scooters are everywhere here. This is definitely the place to have a Harley Franchise. Mark and I walked to the Arch de Triomph. What an amazing structure with some fabulous bas relief sculptures. All of the main roads in Paris converge here and the traffic is really hairy. You cant even cross the street...you must use a passage way that goes under the street. Mark walked the 238 steps up to the top of the Arch but I knew that my knees would be able to do this so I waited down below and people watched. Then we headed out for a stroll along the Champs Elysses. A broad tree lined walk way with all kinds of shops. Felt much like the Miracle Mile in Chicago or Fifth Ave in NYC. We then headed back to the Notre Dame because I said that I was willing to wait in line to see the inside. The lines were much shorter and moved very quickly. What a magnificent cathedral. We paid for the self-guided audio tour and I was really glad we did. I learned much about Catholicism and the story of Mary. The rose windows were breath taking. They have plague honoring a man who was Jewish who converted to Catholicism. I forgot his name but the church hasn't. We walked across the bridge to Il Saint Louis. We wer literally attacked by a band of children who were trying to convince us that they were deaf and that we should sign a paper and give them money. I kept saying no and they kept running around me and shoving the paper in my face. I knew that they were not deaf as I heard one of them speak and they understood my refusal. I believe that these children never saw any of the money they collected. They were out there working for an adult who took all the money. They may even have been trying to distract us so that one of them could pick our pockets. They were quite unnerving. This island in the river is where the City of Paris started. We had a lovely lunch of crepes in a cafe and then walked the streets. The streets are lined with small shops selling lovely goods. I actually did some shopping for gifts here. We headed back to the hotel on the subway to gather our baggage and move to the cruise sponsored hotel, Le Meridian. The hotel was a short walk from our former hotel but dragging three pieces of luggage it felt like a marathon. Got to the hotel and were surprised to find out that it was a Starwood Hotel so i hope to get some points for our stay. Our room is bigger than the previous one but the shower is still a handheld nozzle in a very deep tub. Everytime I get in and out I pray that I don't become a statistic with a broken hip. Made contact with Sandi and Rick and went to a nearby Italian restaurant for dinner. Not great but good and reasonably priced. We traded stories about our adventures of the day and then we went back to the hotel for an early be time.

Day 1. Mark and I are on our way to a great two week vacation. We start in Paris then go to Trier and luxembourg where we catch a small boat (188 passengers) and we sail the Rhine River through Germany. We end up in Prague.

Today we flew to Atlanta. Had 3 hour layover. Plane was delayed for 30 minutes. Boarded the plane. Smelled of gasoline. A big thunderstorm rolled in with lightening so they had to stop loading the baggage. We waited for 30 minutes and the storm was still going strong. Then they announced that we had to leave the plane because the plane next to us had a fuel spill (hence the strong smell of gasoline). We had to take all of our belongings and as we walked through the terminal we could see a lot of firetrucks and ambulances on the tarmac. The terminal was empty and we saw that they had cordoned it off and had guards everywhere. We went to sit with passengers from a plane headed to Zurich. We waited for about an hour and then we were able to re-board our plane. We left Atlanta 3 hours late. The Delta staff were really great and so cheerful. The only problem was the elderly Indian couple behind me who got up every 15 minutes and had to grab my seat back along with a handful of my hair each time. Needless to say, I did not get any sleep and I think I am slightly balder!!

Day 2: Arrived in Paris and went to baggage claim. Mark grabbed what he thought was my bag. I kept saying that it felt heavier than mine and then I saw that it had someone else's name tag on it. My bag did come off the plane and we headed to the shuttle. Took the shuttle to the Porte Maillot station and walked a short five minutes to our hotel, Hotel Harvey on Rue Debarcadere. It is a very quaint small European style hotel. The lobby is small and the rooms are small. It is very clean and very quiet and the air conditioning works great. We took showers and went out to get some lunch and explore Paris. Had lunch at a small cafe near the hotel and then headed to the subway and the old town area. We had Rick Steve's tour book and podcast on our iPhones. Went to the Notre Dame first. Although we had purchased a 4 day museum pass that was supposed to get us to the head of the line....even that line was several blocks long. We decided to move on. We saw the memorial to those who were deported during the Second World War. It was very moving. after that we moved through the old city and saw churches and the cafes where American artists and hippies went to in the late forties and early fifties. The archetecture is amazing. I did not take a pain pill and my knees were really hurting so we went slowly.

We returned to the hotel to meet ups with my sister, Sandi and her husband, Rick. We went to dinner at a lovely restaurant near the hotel. In Paris they really believe that you should take your time eating so it took us over two hours to finish our meals. I had a wonderful breen fish. We went back to the hotel and literally crashed. I slept very soundly.

I have never blogged before but thought it would be a great way to share my trip on the Rhine River.  We leave tomorrow so stay tuned for more of our adventures.